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Viewing topic "Roland RPU3 Pedal"

   
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Posted on: December 06, 2011 @ 06:28 AM
pianokim
Total Posts:  810
Joined  02-09-2003
status: Guru

What I meant was - no matter which of the 3 pedals I use for sustain it’ll have the half-pedal function intact.
I tried each of them plugged into the sustain input - and they all work, just as they all produce dynamic values via midi when I record into Logic.

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Posted on: December 06, 2011 @ 10:04 PM
benoit
Total Posts:  173
Joined  08-19-2009
status: Pro

Thank you.

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Posted on: January 31, 2012 @ 06:59 PM
troycarpenter
Total Posts:  12
Joined  01-23-2010
status: Regular

@Pianokim.
Kim any chance to describe which wires you soldered. Just received my RPU3 today and discovered you have to press the pedals to get sound and it does not work as expected. I plan to open up the pedal unit and change it, but any help that would make it easier would be greatly appreciated.

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Posted on: February 01, 2012 @ 09:06 AM
troycarpenter
Total Posts:  12
Joined  01-23-2010
status: Regular

Ok, So I took apart the pedal unit today and changed the polarity. I thought I would jot down a few notes and share with you guys. Hope it helps some who buys this RPU 3 unit as I did then realises it is not compatible.

Taking the unit apart is pretty simple, plenty of screws but if you are not comfortable taking it apart give it to someone else to do. Takes about 10 minutes.

When you get down to the circuit board you will see the cable has 9 wires. (3 per jack). You will see that there is heat shrink wrapping on the end of the cable. Remove the tie wraps and the heat shrink. You will notice many cables have been spliced together. These are the common ground and common power. The other 3 are the signal which is connected to the plug tip.

You will see the cable connector that has 6 wires going to it. For ease disconnect the connector from the board.

Cables are in order of left to right:-

Red = Centre common / Power
White = Left plug tip / signal
Green = Ground common. (This is also ties to the black wire).
Blue = Centre plug tip / Signal
Black = Ground Common (Tied also to the Green wire)
Orange = Right plug tip / Signal.

All you need to do is to take the Red cable which comes from the 6 pin connector (It is currently soldered under the heat shrink to Purple brown and red wires) and cut this red wire.

Take the Green and black wires coming from the 6 pin connector and solder them together and to the purple brown and red which you just disconnected from the red wire.

Take the red cable from the connector that you previously cut and connect it to where you cut the black and green wires.

Very simple just 3 wires to cut. You are just changing the power and the ground the opposite way around by swapping the green and black wires joined together with the single red cable.
If you are not sure you can buy adaptor plugs that just reverse the polarity and is the best option.

Now as for pedals and function I need to find out. I see a few comments with varying results. I just checked the sustain is working. As the cables were all wired in common. If one works then they all should.

More later.
Thanks,
Troy....

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Posted on: April 21, 2015 @ 10:26 AM
musicadi
Total Posts:  77
Joined  03-26-2007
status: Experienced

Hi all,

Well, just had this very same “jaw-dropping” experience!

In a flagship keyboard which you pay 3600€ for (here in Europe, 40th anniversary edition), one is unable to change the damper polarity!

Honestly, I find this a very cheap trick from Yamaha.... Why would someone be pushed into buying only an FC3/4/5 pedal?! Why can’t a person who pays a small fortune for an instrument decide which sustain pedal they want to use?!

How difficult would it be to add this simple function and why not avoid making it so obvious that they left it out on purpose?!

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